Village fairs, carnivals and nights that do not end

Emilia Romagna has more food fairs than it has towns, and that is not a figure of speech: between June and September there is no village without its own, with long tables under a marquee and a single dish done well. For anyone camping they are the cheapest dinner and the most interesting evening available.

In summer, on the coast

The Pink Night in early July lights up the whole riviera on the same weekend: concerts on the beaches, shops open and fireworks. At Cesenatico the historic boats in the canal port put out under sail on festival days. At Comacchio the eel fair closes the season between October and November, when the campsites are already shutting.

The carnivals

The one at Cento is the biggest in the region and is twinned with Rio: the floats are as tall as the houses and at the end of the parade the winning one is given to Brazil. The carnivals of Busseto and San Giovanni in Persiceto have older traditions and far smaller crowds.

The pageants

The Ferrara palio is said to be the oldest in the world and is run in late May in Piazza Ariostea. The Quintana joust at Bagno di Romagna, the Palio del Niballo at Faenza and the Disfida di Ponte Tiberio at Rimini fill the summer weekends with processions and drums.

Engines

Between Modena and Bologna stands the row of factories everyone knows, and each has its own museum. In spring, rallies are frequent at weekends and the Imola circuit often opens to the public. If you are travelling with an enthusiast, half a day at Maranello saves a holiday.